I bought a battery isolator 140 Amp for my 2004 sprinter camper conversion. I have the rear huge AC unit so I believe the car has the massively oversized alternator. I also bought a mounting kit for it with a 50 amp fuse and only 8 AWG wire. It looks like I screwed up, the manual for the Noco alternator says if I have a 140 amp alternator I should us 2 AWG wire no more than 5' of it. I think the mounting kit is for wimpy 50 amp alternators. In any case, for mounting I'm wondering where the fuse is supposed to be (between the amp and the isolator I would guess) and how can I tell what amp alternator I have? The unit is pretty big too and has lots of fins so I'm wondering where is the best place to mount it.
WirthCo 20092 Battery Doctor 125 Amp/150 Amp Battery Isolator. It's nice not having to switch this manually. NOCO IGD140HP 140 Amp Battery Isolator. Find Smart Battery Isolators Series Battery Isolators part specifications and more from the. Features manually. 85 A Smart Battery Isolator: 12.7 Vdc after. NOCO Genius Wicked Smart Chargers. Battery and Cable Accessories. The Diode Battery Isolator. Requires user to manually switch between batteries. There are 2 main types of automatic battery isolators. The diode based type and the relay (solenoid) type. Diode Based Isolator. Find Smart Battery Isolators Series.
Here is the isolator I bought This is the mounting kit with the 50 amp fuse Also there is lots of weird instructions for old GM's and Hondas and such that say the alternator might have some kind of crazy sensing mechinism to see if there is a battery that it is charging and whether it has voltage. Anyone know if the sprinter has any of that stuff on it? I'm going to have to move the stereo and the aux diesel heater to the deep cycle battery so if anyone has any advice for that I'd love to hear it.
Still on the fence on whether to get a large AGM and lay it on its side or put a Lead acid upright under the pass seat and raise the swivel up another.5inch. My son already can't touch his feet to the floor, has anyone found a Lead acid battery with mounting on the side that will fit in that compartment? AGM's are so wicked expensive. Seems like there is a lot of space under the hood on the opposite side, if I moved the windshield washer fluid resevour I might be able to squeeze a battery over there. Has anyone tried that? Any other advice for dual battery mounting setup is welcome, I have a 2000 Amp inverter and I'm doing a bunch of AC wiring too.
I need to locate a tiny AC breaker box but I can't find anything that is not really big. Thanks in advance. Very helpful. Fact is you selected the wrong isolator for the wrong application as to your alternator type. The cable are OK, but your fuse selection is wrong,I apologize for being blunt but life's a bitch if you get it wrong. Cheap is what you get,for dollars spent: And my friend you just killed your diode pack on your alternator.It will not handle the loading under operation with a large aux battery.
Noco Battery Isolator
When you pre select an isolator.,the isolator must match your alternators capacity for charging. The type you require depending on brand is a microprocessor 150A this particular isolator is rated max as to your cables to 180Max or capable of managing your alternator back to 80AMP [NO LESS]. This is the precursor to a perfectly managed aux battery system in part thereof as to to a total Battery management system that will last you for years,providing you match your mains start deep cycle battery to AGM or Marine deep cycle aux battery. Please consider this as to multiple aux batteries that are in the 200amp + range that has depreciated in holding volts and or amperage. To 40% below a battery's holding charge.at 13.2 volts measured at 621CCA with a rating of 700CAA and that's just for a lesser 80 to 100 amp battery. No alternator will fully charge a battery under charge from alternator with accessory's running under load such as an air condition system. 200 amp+ battery's on auxiliary, require an alternator to run for 6 hrs for a part charge only.